All About Wire

Wire jewelry has been around for a long time.  It is an ancient craft dating back to the time of the Egyptian pyramids, and probably even before then.
When I first began making jewelry I only worked with beads and cord.  I wanted to learn to work with wire, but was too afraid I wouldn't be good at it.  I didn't know where to start, I knew nothing about craft wire.
Wire can be intimidating, but it's really not as complicated as it seems.
The goal of this guide is to provide you with the information I didn't have access to when I first began my jewelry making journey.

Hardness

The hardness of the wire you are working with is very important.  It measures how flexable/brittle the wire is and what you should use it for.

Dead Soft:

Easy to bend into organic shapes (coils, spirals, etc)
MUST be work hardened.  This is difficult and may not always work.
Do not use for structural sections of your jewelry

Half Hard:

Soft enough to bend, yet hard enough to hold it's shape
Good for making geometric shapes as well as organic shapes
May benefit from work hardening, but not necessary
Used to make earring wire, jump rings, hoop earrings
Most commonly used in jewelry making

Full Hard:

Difficult to bend, but retains it's shape well
Brittle and not forgiving.  If you mess up, oh well!
Does not need to be work hardened
No spirals or tight shapes

Work Hardening

There are a variety of techniques you can use to work harden your wire.  Wire can also be hardened before or after you shape it into your design.  Just be careful if you harden it before, as hardening it too much can cause it to become brittle.  This increases the risk of breakage while you are manipulating it.

Before Shaping:

In my experience, the easiest way if you don't have a rubber block and mallet is with a soft cloth (or just use your bare fingers).  BEFORE you make your piece, pinch the wire and run your finger or the cloth in one direction over the wire a few times.

After Shaping:

If you do have access to a nylon mallet and rubber block (you should, they aren't expensive and can be found in craft stores), after you make your piece, you will firmly tap your wire piece with the mallet on the rubber block until the hardness is to your liking.
(I will cover hammering techniques for aesthetics in a separate blog post in the future)

Wire Size

Craft wire comes in a wide variety sizes and shapes, ranging from 10 gauge all the way to 32 gauge.
However, the most commonly used wire gauges in jewelry making are listed in the chart below:

So, what can you make with each size?

14 gauge:
Sturdy clasps and closures
Thick jump rings
Neck collars
Bracelets/cuffs/bangles
Rings
Frames
Structure wire
Charms

16 gauge:
Clasps and closures
Thick jump rings
Large chains
Neck collars
Bracelets/cuffs/bangles
Rings
Frames
Structure wire
Small charms

18 gauge:
Delicate clasps and closures
Jump rings
Medium chains
Bracelets
Rings
Frames
Structure wire
Bails

20 gauge:
Small jump rings
Small chains
Rings
Frames
Bails for light weight stones
Settings
Ear wires
Hoop earrings

22 gauge:
Small frames
Settings
Ear wires for light weight earrings
Binding large wire
Embellishing larger wire

24 gauge:
Binding
Coiling
Weaving
Crochet/knitting
Wire wrapping
Embellishing larger wire

26 gauge:
Binding
Coiling
Weaving
Crochet/knitting
Wire wrapping
Small embellishments for larger wire



I hope this information has been helpful to you all!  If you enjoyed reading it subscribe to this blog by hitting the button at the top of the page.  Thank you for stopping by,

Copperccino Crafts & Accessories

Sources:
Jewelry Tutorial HQ
Wire Jewelry